Sewing and roughening machine



' 5 Sheets-Sheet 1 J. R. OLIVER SEWING AND ROUGHENING MACHINE Filed Nov.4, 1943 M r .w H. .u. r w mv ..4 m 0 2 p u n 4/. W w p y me [nw o MM mpril 2, 1946.

John RUIN/er 51; his Attorney A ril2, 1946. J. R. OLIVER SEWING ANDROUGHENING MACHINE Filed Nov. 4, 1945 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 [nus/z for JohnRON ver BU hm Attorney April 2, 1946. r .1. R. OLIVER 2,397,619

SEWING AND ROUGHENING MACHINE Filed NOV. 4, 1943 5 Shets-Sheet 3 [NW6]?far John R.O1iver By his Attorney- April 2, 1946.

J. R. OLIVER 1 2,397,619

SEWING AND ROUGHENING MACHINE Filed Nov. 4, 1943 1 5 Sheets-Sheep 4fizuen for Joh n R. Oliver B9 hi; Atto r neg April 1946. J. R. OLIVERSEWING AND ROUGHENING MACHiNE Filed Nov. 4, 1943 5 Sheets-Sheet 5fizz/en for John R. Oliver By his Attorney Patented Apr. 2, 1946 SEWINGAND ROUGHENING John R. Oliver, Beverly, Mass., assignor to United ShoeMachinery Corporation, Flemington, a corporation of New JerseyApplication Novemberd, 1943, Serial No. 508,913

12 Claims. (01. 12-1) The present invention relates generally toimprovements in sewing and lasting machines and more particularly tomeans in a sewing machine for roughening parts of shoes while being sewntogether, although in certain of its aspects the invention is notlimited to machines for operating upon shoes or shoe parts only.

In the use of a machine disclosed in United the upper of astitchdown-type shoe may be roughened while the shoe is being lasted andsewed, thereby eliminating the necessity of a separate rougheningoperation on the upper after the lasting seam has been inserted.

The illustrative machine in which these objects are attained is providedwith the usual stitch States Letters Patent to Leveque No. 1,864,510,

granted June 21, 1932, to Fredericksen No.. 2,246,993, granted June 24,194i, and to Koloske and Curtin- No. 2,272,065, granted February 3.1942, the parts of a shoe are lasted and sewed while clamped between apair of work-gripping and feeding rolls rotated alternately with astitching operation to cause the point of operation to progress aboutthe shoe. The machine of the Koloske et a1. patent is arranged tooperate on a relatively thin unchanneled midsole and upper, and, duringsewing, a welt is attached by the seam inserted. After being sewn, anoutsole is secured to the shoe either by stitches passing through thewelt and outsoleor by cement. If cement is employed, it is necessary toroughen the parts to which the cement is applied in order that thecer'iient may form an effective bond.

Preferably, the lasting margin of the upper is folded inwardly of themidsole and the exposed grain surface of the upper also-is roughened sothat when the outsole is attached the bond of the cement to theupper'renders it unnecessary to rely entirely on the strength of thelasting threads to hold the outsole and welt to the upper. After thewelt, upper and midsole are'sewn together in lasted relation, itfrequently, may be diflicult to roughen the lasting allowance along themargin of the upper as close to the lasting seam as desired withoutdanger of injury to the stitches. This difllculty is particularlypronounced when the lasting allowance of the upper is trimmed closely tothe lasting seam, since close trimming requires also close roughening.

One object of the present invention is to provide a machine in which thework operated upon may be roughened for reception of cement and sewnsimultaneously with the formation of a narrow strip of abraded surfaceclose to the exposed threads of a seam, thus avoiding any danger ofinjury to the stitches during a separate roughening operation or ofaccidental removal of the roughened areas by subsequent close trimming.Another object is to improve the operation of a lasting and sewingmachine of the type disclosed in the patents above referred to and to soarrange the machine that the grain surface on forming and work feedingdevices and is equipped with abrading means acting during operation ofthe stitch forming devices to roughen a surface of the work in proximityto or along the line of the seam simultaneously with its insertion andpreferably continuously. In the present form of the invention, the workis fed by devices comprising one or more gripping rolls engaging the'work at one side of the seam line and, in order to avoid any tendencyfor the work to become displaced in the machine or the thread of theseam to be inJured by the roughening means. the roughening means acts onan area of the work along a line at right angles to the seam,

feeding rolls from accidental engagement with l the sewing thread.

To enable proper lasting operations to be performed as well as to impartsuitable stretching action to the upper during each movement of the workfeeding rolls while at the same time providing ample space for operationof the stitch forming devices close to the area roughened, therougheningv means, in the illustrative machine. consists of a rotatingwheel having at its periphery an abrading surface of generally conicalshape, and at least one of the work feeding rolls is similarly shapedand mounted substantially coaxially with the abrading wheel. In thepresent embodiment of this feature, two work feeding rolls are providedat the same side of the work and of approximately the same diameter asthe abrading wheel, both of which rolls are substantially coaxial withand disposed one on eithe'r side of the abrading wheel, one .of therolls acting as a guard for the abrading wheel. By this arrangement, theabrading wheel engages the work between the feeding rolls, and the fullbenefit of the feeding rolls in lasting and stretching the upper isretained as described in sewing.

Other features of the invention consist of certain novel constructions,combinations and arrangements of partshereinaiter described and claimed,the advantages of which will be aptrated in Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is a large scale sectional showing of the lasting or feedingrolls together with the roughening wheel of the improved machine,illustrating their manner of operation upon the work in relation to thepositions of the stitch forming devices;

Fig. 4 is a detail view in elevation, as viewed in the direction of thearrow in Fig. 3, of portions of the driving gear arrangements for thefeeding rolls and roughening wheel;

Fig. 5 is a view in front elevation on a somewhat reduced scale of thestitch forming devices, work feeding rolls and welt guide in themachine;

Fig. 6 is an enlarged sectional view of the welt guide taken along theline VI-VI of Fig. 5;

Fig. 7 is a sectional view of a portion of a completed shoe the parts ofwhich are lasted and roughened on the machine of the invention;

Fig. 8 is a detail sectional view of the support- 1 ing bearing for theroughening wheel, illustrating its manner of adjustment toward and fromthe work;

Fig. 9 is a detail view on an enlarged scale, indicating the position ofthe welt and needle after the welt leaves the welt guide and as thestitches are being inserted by the machine;

Fig. 10 is a partial sectional view of a portion of a shoe bottomdisclosing the relation of the roughened strip to the seam after beinginserted and the excess material trimmed in preparation for thereception of cement;

Fig. 11 is a view in side elevation and partially in section of the workengaging parts and of the stitch forming devices in. the improvedmachine taken while operating upon a portion of the shoe illustrated inFig. 5;

Fig. 12 is a perspective view of a portion of the shoe after beinglasted with the grain surface of the upper roughened for the receptionof cement and trimmed but not fully. prepared as in Fig. 10 forapplication of the outsole; and

Fig. 13 is a detail view in left side elevation of a set oflinkconnections in the machine.

The shoes operated upon by the illustrated machine are similar to thoseconstructed with the machine of the Fredericksen and Koloske et al.patents identified above. As best shown in Figs. 7 and 10 to 12,inclusive, this type of shoe comprises an upper 2 backed by a. lining d,an insole 6 and a thin unchanneled sheet of woven material constitutinga midsole 8 superposed upon the insole 8, all the parts being mountedtemporarily upon and enclosing a last it. During sewing the upper isstretched and carried around Y the break line of the enclosed last ashort distance onto the tread surface of the last. An outsole is thenattached by. stitches or cement with or without the addition of abeveled welt inserted along the crease formed by the outtumecl margin ofthe ass acre iected to manufacturing processes other than upper andsole. The resulting shoe may be classified as a stitchdown, or wheresewed on the Koloske et al. machine, the shoe is more nearly in thenature of a welt shoe in which a welt strip, such as is indicated at 82,is led into the lasting seam during sewing. Accordingly, instead ofturning the marginal portions of the upper out- 'wardly, as in astitchdown shoe,the lasting allowances of the upper and attached midsoleare trimmed off close to the lasting seam, indicated at l3, with a bevelcut, and the trimmed edges are turned from the line of the seam inwardlyalong the under surface of the midsole before an out-- sole is appliedto the shoe. When the outsole is applied the resulting shoe has theconstruction of that illustrated in Fig. '7. Where cement is employed onthe outsole a bond is obtained between the welt I2 and the outsole,indicated at It.

In order to form a more durable union between the outsole it, the weltE2 and the upper 2 oi the shoe illustrated in Fig. 7, it is desirable toavoid trimming .the lasting allowances of the upper and midsole tooclose to the lasting seam connecting the welt and upper. It ispreferable to trim the upper and midsole with an allowance sufiicient inwidth when folded over inwardly of the midsole to provide a narrow stripof surface I6 on the upper to which the outsole attaching mment may beapplied. Before the cement can be applied to the surface it ofv thelasting allowance, the upper preferably is suitably prepared androughened, since the grain or finished surface of the leather inthe-upper is exposed. In roughening the lasting and cementing allowanceof the upper, extreme care must be taken to avoid abrading or otherwiseinjuring the threads of the lasting seam, and because the cementingallowance is comparatively narrow in width and of flexible nature thereare numerous practical difficulties in this operation.

In the machine to which the present invention is applied the workengaging parts are constructed and arranged to form, simultaneously withthe sewing operation, the roughened strip ii; on the grain surface ofthe upper close to the line of stitches inserted. For this purpose, theillustrated machine is provided with work guiding and feeding devices toprevent the sewing thread from coming into engagement with theroughening means and to insure that the operation of the rougheningmeans will be guided accurately in close proximity to the point wherethe stitches of the seam are inserted.

The stitch forming devices of the illustrated machine comprise astraight eye-Pointed needle H, a loop taker i8 and a take-up 2%, allactuated by a main sewing shaft 2i of the same construction and mode ofoperation as in the machine of the patent to Lcveque above identified.In. the machineof both the above-mentioned patents,

the work is gripped and fed by a pair of opposed uppertensioning andwork engaging rolls, one at either side of the work and termed the topor upper engaging and lower or support rolls. To grip and feed the workpast the point of sewing'operations, the present illustrated machine isprovided with three work-engaging rolls 22, 2d and 26. The rolls 2d and26 rotate about the same axis, have conical work engaging surfaces andtogether perform the upper tensioning functions of the single upperengaging roll in the Patented machine, the shoe being held in contactwith a work support 21. The upper engaging rolls 2t and 26 are rotatedsimultaneously and intermita Y 9,897,019 V 3 tently while engaging thework, the stitches being inserted alternately with the feeding movementsof the rolls. The lower support roll 22 alsois rotated simultaneouslywith the upper engaging rolls 24 and 28 by mechanism more fullyillustrated. and described in the Leveque patent.

To roughen the strip i8 on the grain surface along the lasting allowanceof the shoe upper 2 whichextends beyond the seam line and which isgripped by the work engaging and feeding rolls, the rolls 24 and 28 arespaced axially a short distance apart and there is interposed betweenthem a rotatable abrading wheel 28 having a generally conical peripheralsurface formed in the-usual way with spaced rows of teeth. The adjacentperipheral surfaces of both rolls 24 and 28 and of the abrading wheelare arranged substantially coaidally with each other and form an I beguarded from accidental contact with the thread during sewing. The roll28 is spaced a short distance to the rear of the roll 24 and assists ingathering the fullness of the outflanged allowance of the upper anddistributing it evenly along the seam.

The mountings and means for driving the feed rolls and a'brading wheelare best illustrated in Fig. 3 and enable the needle to operate acrossan,

end face, diametrically of the substantially co-' axial feeding rollsand abrading wheel along a path forming an obtuse angle with the axisabout which the rolls and wheel rotate. The lower support roll 22 isrotatably mounted upon the forward end of the main sewing shaft 2i ofthe machine and' is driven by a sleeve 88 on which are formed helicalgear teeth 82 meshing with a helical gear 34 driven intermittently bymechanism including a one-way Horton clutch, or ratchet, 88 (see Fig. 1)on a shaft 81. The guide roll 24 and the upper gathering roll 28 aresimilarly driven by helical gears 88 and 40 to which they are connectedrespectively. The gears 88 and 48 are spaced axially to mesh at separatelocations about the circumference of a single intermittently rotatedhelical driving gear 42 secured to a shaft rotatably mounted in apivoted support member 44, the intermittent feeding movement beingimparted by a one-way Horton clutch 45 on the shaft 48. l

The guide roll 24 has an inclined central spindle 46 in the form of abolt for clamping the roll 24 to a sleeve 48 rotatably mounted in abushing 58 in the support member 44 concentrically with the sleeve "88.The guide roll is keyed to the forward end of the sleeve 48 and, alongits central portion, the sleeve is provided witha flange forming thehelical gear 88 meshing with the gear 42 along those tooth portions ofthe gear 42 approximately beneaththe center of the shaft 48.

The upper gathering feed roll 28 is of washerlike configuration threadedwithin a central opening to a sleeve 52 rotatably mounted inbearingsurfaces of the support member 44. At its rearward end, the sleeve 52has an enlargement forming the helical gear 40 meshing with theintermittently driven gear 42 along those tooth held in the grip of; thefeed rolls acting at opthe internal diameter of the sleeve 84 beingsuflicient to enable slight relative movement between the sleeve 84 andthe sleeve 44 transversely to their. axes. the purpose of which will beexplained hereinafter. Surrounding the abrading wheel sleeve 84 'is aneedle-type roller bearing 88 supported within bearing surfaces of atubular seat at one end of a mounting lever 88 (see Fig. 4) fulcrumed bymeans of an integrally formed stud 60 which enters an opening in thesupport member 44. The left end of the mounting lever 58 is forcedyieldingly upwardly by a tension spring 82 connected between the leveranda pin extending laterally from the support member 44. The arrangementis such that the upward force of the spring 62 forces the abrading wheelyieldingly downwardly to engage the surface of the work operated uponalong a line at right angles to the seam connectingthe upper engagingportions of the rolls 24 and 28 and the point of sewing operations.Thus. all the work engaging devices are located in alinement effectivelyto operatewithin a small area on the work with the least possibletendency to exert forces which must be overcome 'by the operator inpresenting the shoe to and guiding it in the machine. The work issecurely posite sides ofthe abrading wheel to prevent movement of thework by the abrading wheel'as a result of its reaction on the work.

To drive the abrading wheel sleeve 54. the rearward end of the sleeve isformed with a spur gear 64 of sufilciently small external diameter toescape contact with the feed roll driving gear 42. Meshing with the spurgear 84 at the right-hand side of t e axis of the sleeve 84 is an idlergear.

68 rotatable in the support member 44 (see Figs. 1 and 4) which idlergear in turn meshes with a driving gear 68 fixed to the forward end of aspindle 18. The rearward end of the .spindle ll has secured to it apulley 12 about which passed a V-belt l4 surrounding a'motor drivenpulley 18 (Fig. 2) at the left side of the machine. The motor pulley I8is rotated continuously at a sufllciently high speed to cause the strip'of material engaged by the abrading wheel to be roughened thoroughly andto a suillcient depth below the grain surface of the upper to provide afirm grip for the cement.

It will be noted that, as in the patented ma-,

chine, the present work grippingand feeding rolls are rotatedintermittently and only during the times when the needle is disengagedfrom the work. The abrading wheel of the present machine, however, iscontinuously rotated and, due

to its yielding mountingin the support member,

has a tendency to produce an'increased roughening eflect while the shoeis stationary, cutting into the upper below the grain surface engaged bythe top rolls 24 and 28 at positions on the up-' per directly in linewith the points of engagement on the upper of the top rolls and oppositethe point of needle penetration. Thus, the in- ,portions of the gearwhich are disposed with an 7 creases the grip provided for the cement atsement in the quality of the bond resulting when I cement is applied tothe roughened strip I6. In certain types of material the surfaces ofwhich are relatively hard and inflexible, a light abrasion is sufficientto insure a reliable bond with cement, whereas, with softer and moreflexible materials, it is desirable to prepare the surfaces .by abradingmore deeply into the substance of the material, thus producing elongatedfree fibers, the roots of which are more deeply anchored than those atthe surface of the material. If the free fibers are too long, however,it is difficult to obtain afirm foundation for the cement on the mainbody of the material so that an insecure bond results.

When different types of work are operated uponin the usual rougheningmachine, it is the practice, therefore, to adjust the machine manuallyfor the particular type of material.

In the machine of the present invention, variation in depth of abrasionoccurs automatically along the roughened strip I6, and a secure bond isinsured for all types of material within a given range of quality sinceboth deep and shallow abrasion of the surface is produced alternately.The shallow areas of abrasion will cause no sub- 2c yieldingly inengagement with the work. During movement of the rockshaft 80, the arm88 reaches a position of alinement with the rod 18,

and the spring 80 is compressed to force the feed rolls 24 and 26against the work. Before engaging the work, the abrading wheel 28 whichprojects slightly below the adjacent edges of the feed rolls 24 and 26first engages the work and, during continued downward movement of thesupport member, the abrading wheel causes the spring 62 connected to themounting lever 58 for the abrading wheel to yield, thus providing ayielding engagement of the abrading wheel with the work, the togglespring 80 being stronger than the spring 62 and, therefore, overcomingthe force of the spring 62. After the arm 88 moves beyond a position ofalinement with the rod I8, the spring 80 serves to hold the rolls inwork gripping posistantial weakening in the strength of the matefeedingmovements. With such adjustment, separate roughened areas will beproduced to which the cement will adhere without bonding with theunroughened areas between. When thus cemented, the completed shoe willhave greater flexibility and' the cement will not have the opportuni'tyto crack or to become disengaged from the parts as where the upper isuniformly roughened alonga continuous strip.

For convenience in applying the shoe to the machine and removing theshoe after the operations are completed the supporting member 4 3 isshiftable on its pivot 11 to carry the feed'rolls and abrading wheel,mounted thereon, toward and from the lower feed roll 22. For actuatingthe upper engaging rolls toward the supporting roll to grip the work,the support member M has a laterally extending arm formed with aperforation receiving loosely a threaded rod I8 coiled about which is acompression spring 88 acting at its lower end against the arm of thesupport'member 44 and at its upper end against a check nut 82 on the rodI8. The upper end of the rod I8 also is threaded into a perforated block84 pivotally mounted on a stud 86 which passes through the perforationin theblock'M and is secured to an arm 88 clamped to one end of ahorizontal rockshaft 98 rotatable in the machine frame. When therockshaft-90 is rotated, the arm 88 and the threaded rod I8 about whichis coiled the compression spring 80 act as a toggle to depress thesupport member 44 and lock the rolls 2% and tion until the rockshaft ispositively operated in the opposite direction. When the rockshaft isrotated in the opposite direction to unlock and raise the gripping andfeeding rolls and the abrading wheel, the support member 44 ismaintained in its raised position by the action of a link 9| pivotallyconnected to the stud 86 and to a stud 92 at the forward end of a radiusarm 94 carried by a pivot on the machine frame.- The lower end of theradius arm 94 is urged yieldingly upwardly by a spring pressed plunger96 slidably mounted in the machine frame beneath the radius arm. Thus,the abrading wheel and ad-" jacent upper feed rolls may be yieldinglypressed against or forced away from the work as a unit and, whendisengaged from the work, the condition of the surface of the upper mayreadily be examined by t e operator without removing the work fromoperative position on the support roll 22.

The shaft 90 is rocked by mechanism similar to that for raising andlowering the upper feed roll in the Leveque patent above referred to.This mechanism briefly comprises a three-arm member 98 (see Fig. 1) onearm of which carries a projecting screw I00 acted upon by a. h00k I02pivoted by means of a bolt I04 on the end of an arm I06 secured to atreadle controlled rockshaft I118. The other arms of the three-armmember 98 are provided with set screws, one of which is indicated at II0, arranged to contact with stationary portions of the frame to limitrotational movement of the rockshaft 90. The treadle controlledrockshaft I08 is actuated to shift the position of the hook I02 by anarm I I2 secured to the outer end of the rockshaft I08 and a treadleactuated rod H3 extending downwardly from the left side of the machineand connected 'to the arm I I2. Movement of the treadle controlledrockshaft I98 causes the feeding rolls to grip the work and alsoconnects the actuating mechanism for the feeding rolls with the mainsewing shaft 2i.

To connect the actuating mechanism for the work gripping and feedingrolls with the main sewing shaft 2i, the sewing shaft is formed with acrank portion Ilt surrounded by a hearing at one end pf a connecting rodH6, the other end of which is connected to a bell crank II8 rotatablymounted on a fixed stud I20. Also rotatable on the stud I20 is a needleactuating bell crank I22 between which and a clamp collar I24 on aneedle supporting bar I26 is a short link I28.

Also connected to the needle actuating lever I22 is a pair of shortlinks I30, one beside the other, operatively connecting a pair ofsimilar but opnected through linksI34 and I, respectively,

the Horton clutches 30; and 45 acting simultaneously to drive the shafts31 and 43 onwhich the driving gears for the feed rolls are mounted. Fora complete description of the construction and mode of operation of thismechanism, reference may be had to the Leveque patent. I

The present machine is equipped with a guide for directing a welt intothe seam formed by the stitch forming device. This welt guide is bestshown in Figs. 1, 2, and 6 and consists in a base block I38secured by abolt. I40 to a forwardly extending arm I42 of the support member 44 anda cover plate I44--fastened to the base block I38 by a screw I46.Between the base block work engaging portions of the rolls to roughenI38 and the cover plate I44 there is formed a welt receiving passagearranged with a downwardly extending rib I48 in alinement with theneedle to enter into an angular cut provided in the flesh side of thewelt indicated at I50. The rib I48 I raises a flap formed by the cut inthe welt from the main body of the welt so that the needle II during itswork penetrating 'stroke may strike into the root of the cut in the weltand emerge from the lower edge of the welt when penetrating the parts ofthe shoe operated upon. In other respects, the operation of the weltguide directing the welt toward the point of sewing operation is thesame as that in the machine of the Koloske patent. a

To provide additional means for guiding the needle, as well as forguarding the sewing thread from the peripheral work engaging surfaces ofthe feed rolls and roughening wheel which are formed with pointed teethor ridges and to strengthen the support of the welt guide in themachine, the bolt I40 passes through a brace member I52 at the oppositeside of the support arm I42 having a downwardly curved horizontally bentlower end contacting with a side surface of the supporting block I38 ofthe welt guide. The brace member also assists in locating the weltproperly and preventing its displacement from the work between the timethe needle penetrates the work and the time each stitch is set.

Certain features of the present invention disclosed but not claimedherein, and relating to a roughing machine, form the subject of adivisional application for United States Letters Patent Serial No.609,460, filed August '7, 1945.

The nature and scope of the invention having been indicated and aparticular embodiment having been specifically described, what isclaimed is: I

1. A sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming and workfeeding devices, and

abrading means acting during sewing to roughen a surface of the work inproximity to the seam insertedby the stitch forming devices.

2. A sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices, workgripping and feeding rolls engaging the work along the line of operationof the'stitch forming devices, and means acting continuously duringsewing and feeding operations along the area of the work engaged by therolls to roughen a surface of the work.

3. A sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices, workgripping and feeding rolls engaging the work along the line of operationof the stitch forming devices, and means acting during the sewingoperation along a line at right angles to the seam and connecting thethe surface of the work.

4. A .sewing machine having, in combination,

stitchformin'g devices, work gripping and feed ing rolls engaging .the\ork along the line. of 013-, eration of the ,stitch forming devices, andmeans acting during the sewing operation along a line at right angles tothe seam and connecting the work engaging portions of the rolls toroughen the surface of the work, said roughening means being guarded byone of the rolls against accidental engagement with the sewing thread.

5. A sewing machine having, in combination,

stitch forming devices, a pair of spaced rolls rotatable about the sameaxis to engage and feed the work, and means acting between the rolls toroughen the surface of the work.

6. A sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices, apair of spaced rolls rotatable about the same axis to engage and feedthe work, and an abrading wheel rotating between the rolls substantiallycoaxially therewith to roughen the surface of the work in proximity tothe line of operation of the stitch forming devices.

7. A sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices, aset of nested coaxial rotatable members having work engagingperipheries, certain of said members actingto roughen the surface of thework, and others of said members located at-eith'er side to feed thework.

8. A sewing machine having, in combination, work gripping and feedingrolls, a rotating wheel having its periphery formed with a surface toabrade the work operated upon for the reception of cement, said wheelbeing mounted for rotation substantially coaxially with one of therolls, and stitch forming devices including a needle operating across anend diametrically of the coaxial roll and wheel along a path forming anobtuse angle with the axis about which the coaxial roll and wheelrotate.

9. A shoe sewing and lasting machine having, in combination, stitchforming devices, shoe supporting and feeding means including an upperengaging guide roll and a work support between which the peripheralsurface of the guide roll the lasting margin of a shoe upper is gripped,and means for gathering the fullness in the upper and distributing itthroughout the lasting margin of the upper, comprising a second upperengaging roll mounted coaxially with the guide roll and spaced to engagethe upper at a distance from the upper engaging periphery of the guideroll.

10. A shoe sewing and lasting machine having, in combination, stitchforming devices, shoe supporting and feeding means including an upper incombination, stitch forming devices, shoe supporting and feeding meansincluding an upper engaging guide roll and a work support between whichand the peripheral surface of the guide roll the lasting margin of ashoe upper is gripped, a

pivoted support on which the upper eng in in combination, stitch formingdevicem shoe sup.

roll is mounted; a welt guide arranged in aline-' porting and feedingmeans including up r tenment with the point of operation of the stitchsioning members, and abrading means aeting'to "forming devices, and a.rib on the welt guide enroughen, at least one of the parts of the shoeterms" a. channel in the welt carried by the guide 5 being operated uponby the stitch forming devices.

to open the channel for the reception of stitches.

12. A machine for operating uponshoes having, JOHN R. OLIVER.

